Author Archives: Driftwood Garden Center

Veggie Gardening in Zone 10b Southwest Florida

A tremendous aspect of gardening in southwest Florida Hardiness Zone 10b is enjoying fresh, homegrown produce year-round.

Best Vegetables to Garden in Southwest Florida by Season

Many types of veggies can grow well in zone 10b, depending on when they are planted, their general time to maturity, and their individual growth needs, such as soil type, sunlight levels, and fertilization and watering requirements. Whether seeds or seedlings are planted in the garden will also impact the best time to start different veggies, but there is great flexibility to what you can choose to fill your garden and your table.

Veggies to Plant in Spring

Spring in southwest Florida is a short season, earlier than most springs in northern areas, and marked by warming temperatures and gradually increasing rains. In general, spring conditions will be felt in February and March, which is a great time to plant:

  • Arugula
  • Bell peppers
  • Broccoli
  • Carrots
  • Cauliflower
  • Collards
  • Cucumbers
  • Eggplants
  • Kale
  • Mustard greens
  • Spinach
  • Turnips
  • Zucchinis

Veggies to Plant in Summer

Summer is a long, hot, humid season in southwest Florida, subject to intense thunderstorms and the possibility of tropical storms and hurricanes. Fewer veggies will thrive in this season, which runs from April through August or mid-September. Options that can make the most of the growing season include:

  • Black-eyed peas
  • Bell peppers
  • Hot peppers
  • Celery
  • Cucumber
  • Okra
  • Onion
  • Squash
  • Sweet potatoes

Veggies to Plant in Autumn

Like spring, the autumn season in southwest Florida – encompassing September, October, and November – is a fleeting season with few signs of seasonal change other than lower humidity and fewer rainstorms. Landscapes remain lush and green, leaves stay intact, and great vegetables can be grown, including:

  • Beans
  • Beets
  • Broccoli
  • Brussels sprouts
  • Cabbage
  • Carrots
  • Celery
  • Eggplants
  • Leeks
  • Lettuce
  • Peas
  • Sweet corn

Veggies to Plant in Winter

A southwest Florida winter stretches from December to January or mid-February, a short season but one that could still see intermittent frosts and cooler overall temperatures, as well as less sunlight. The region’s mild winters permit great veggies to thrive, including:

  • Beets
  • Bell peppers
  • Broccoli
  • Cauliflower
  • Okra
  • Rutabaga
  • Tomato
  • Turnips

It should be noted that depending on the exact planting date, there can be significant overlap between which veggies can be grown in which season. For example, some vegetables that are easy to grow in late summer will also do well in autumn.

Tips for Veggie Gardening in Zone 10b

Regardless of the season, there are steps you can take to ensure productive harvests and the tastiest veggies from your southwest Florida garden.

  • Provide Proper Drainage
    With excessive rain and torrential downpours, a fact of life in southwest Florida, soil must be well-draining. Unfortunately, although Florida’s sandy soils drain well, they don’t always have the best nutrition. Containers and raised beds will work well if they are well-draining and can be filled with the best possible soil for veggies to thrive.
  • Promote Air Circulation
    Frequent rains and high humidity – which describe most of the year in southwest Florida – can create ideal conditions for fungus, mold, and other garden pests to thrive. Space vegetable plants properly, giving them enough room to ensure adequate air circulation, and thin plants as necessary to keep gardening spaces from becoming overcrowded.
  • Be Prepared With Cold Protection
    While Florida’s winters are decidedly mild, there can still be occasional cold nights that will damage veggie gardens, especially younger plants. Watch weather forecasts closely for cold fronts, and be prepared with row covers, cold frames, cloches, or other protective options to keep plants cozy when cold weather threatens.
  • Fertilize Appropriately
    Because veggies can be grown year-round in zone 10b, the soil does not have a chance to rest and naturally break down enough organic material to nourish a new crop of vegetables. Choose appropriate fertilizers and apply them as needed to ensure the veggies receive adequate nutrition to reach their full potential for the best harvest every season.
  • Keep a Gardening Journal
    One of the best tools to make the most of your veggie gardening efforts is a journal to track what works, what doesn’t, what you’ve tried, what conditions impacted your harvests, and other details. Over time, your journal can be a powerful tool to tweak your gardening plans, veggie choices, planting calendar, and other processes to improve the outcome.

Veggie gardening in Southwest Florida can be challenging, but it can be gratifying once you adapt to the region’s unique conditions and make the most of the richness it can bring to your harvest.

Hurricane Prep for Plants

Hurricanes can be devastating for even the best-laid landscapes, bringing violent winds, torrential rains, storm surges, salt spray, and other impacts to yards even a significant distance from the coast. There are steps you can take as hurricane preparations for plants, however, that can help minimize such damage and protect your landscape from these storms.

When Is Hurricane Season?

The Atlantic Hurricane Season begins annually on June 1 and lasts through November 30. Historically, the busiest and strongest part of the season is from mid-August through September, but a powerful hurricane can occur anytime during the season or even outside the typical season dates.

In fact, tropical storms can inflict severe damage even if they aren’t classified as official hurricanes, and in Florida, we are susceptible to strong thunderstorms and other damaging fronts, including potential tornados, throughout the year.

Best Hurricane Prep for Plants

Fortunately, there are easy ways to practice hurricane prep for plants long before storms form and extra safeguards that can be taken as a storm approaches. After the storm, proper care can help plants recover quickly so within just days or weeks, the landscape will be lush and thriving again.

Before the Storm

The best way to prepare plants for hurricane impacts is to start preparation months or even years in advance. In particularly sensitive areas, such as immediate beach properties or regions that may see multiple storm impacts in just a few years, choosing wind-resistant and salt-tolerant plants can go a long way to ensure landscaping isn’t fazed by most hurricanes. Choosing native plants adapted to Florida’s unique climate, soil, and storm conditions will also help ensure a healthy landscape that can adapt to the occasional hurricane.

Keeping plants as healthy as possible will help them resist any storm’s impact. This includes ensuring proper nutrition through good-quality soil, appropriate fertilization, and watering as needed, as well as pruning away any dead wood or damaged sections. Take care that trees and shrubs are not damaged by lawn care, and ensure there is proper drainage around all plants so they are not sitting in sogginess after rains.

Each spring, well before hurricane season begins, inspect plants for any damage or infirmity, and prune or remove the plants as necessary. Similarly, check support structures such as stakes, trellises, arbors, or fences and repair or replace them to be sure they are stable and secure. Check that you have ample ropes or other gear on hand if a storm threatens, such as covers or additional stakes for extra security if needed.

When a Storm Approaches

Once a hurricane has formed, there will generally be several days of advance warning before it makes landfall. During that time, finish all emergency preparations and take any extra steps to prepare plants. This may include cleaning up and discarding yard debris, or weighting down piles of debris if they cannot be picked up before the storm arrives so loose branches do not become projectiles in high winds. Extra stakes or support can be added to more vulnerable plants, and the most tender new plants could be covered with buckets – held down with bricks – to protect them from high winds.

In the days before the storm, ensure plants are thoroughly watered but do not oversaturate the soil, as Mother Nature will likely bring a good deal of her own water with the storm. This is a good time to turn off any irrigation system or timer. Pick any ripe fruit and enjoy it before it becomes windfall during the storm. In the last hours before a storm hits or you must evacuate, bring containers into sheltered locations – in a shed, garage, screen porch, entryway, or at least in the corner of a fence to protect them from the full force of the winds.

During a Hurricane

When a storm hits, staying safe is the ultimate priority and it is no time to worry about landscaping. Seek shelter or evacuate as needed, and wait until the storm is well passed to venture outdoors to assess any damage.

After the Storm

Once winds have died down and waters have receded, first ensure the area is safe from downed wires or any hidden hazards before checking landscaping. Take care of any immediate threats first, such as branches or trees that may have caused structural damage, and notify authorities if any overhead electrical lines or underwater pipes might be affected by either downed or uprooted trees.

If plants are severely damaged, they may need to be pruned or replaced, but native, storm-resistant varieties can be surprisingly hardy and may recuperate naturally within a few weeks. Other debris will need to be cleared, and broken branches trimmed.

Some plant damage is likely inevitable from any hurricane, but with proper preparation in the months, weeks, and days before the storm that damage can be minimized. Sooner than you realize, your landscape will look just as lush and beautiful as it did before any storm warnings were issued.

5 Most Common Houseplant Pests

It’s not unusual or a sign of failure if houseplants become infested with some common potted plant pests. This problem is more pervasive when introducing newly purchased plants to the home, moving tender houseplants from the outdoors back inside with the changing seasons, and finally, when houseplants are under stress. These buggers can wreak havoc, leaving plants unhappy, unhealthy, and downright unattractive. However, even the most tenacious pests can be controlled with conscientious care. By acting quickly when these unwanted guests are first noticed, you can completely remove an infestation and keep your houseplants healthy, happy, and thriving.

Top 5 Common Houseplant Pests and Controlling Them

There are quite a number of houseplant pests that can make both you and your plants miserable. We’ve covered the five most common ones in this article.

Fungus Gnats

These tiny, flying pests, resembling fruit flies, don’t harm houseplants in their mature, adult form, but fungus gnat larvae live in houseplant soil and feed on organic material. This not only robs the plant of nutrition, but the larvae may also nibble on the plant’s roots. While they don’t cause much overall damage to an otherwise healthy plant, fungus gnats can be very irritating when they form cloud-like flocks hovering around a plant’s foliage.

Overwatering encourages fungus gnats, and they can be notoriously difficult to eradicate. Begin control by repotting the plant in fresh potting soil. Before repotting, rinse the roots to wash away any larvae. If reusing the same container, be sure to sterilize it before repotting. Use a high-quality, well-draining potting mix. Once repotted, reduce the amount of water and frequency, allowing the top inch of the soil to dry between waterings. Bottom watering will also make the environment less attractive to fungus gnats. In addition, mixing diatomaceous earth into the potting soil, adding a layer of chicken grit to the soil surface, or applying Bt var. israelensis (Bti-H14) will all help to control fungus gnat larvae organically.

Mealybugs

The tell-tale sign of these tiny, sap-sucking insects is a white, waxy, cottony substance frequently found on the underside of plant leaves and in plant stem crotches. As they suck the plant’s sap, the leaves wither and wilt. Yellowing leaves can also indicate an infestation, mainly if leaves are seen throughout the plant rather than just older bottom foliage.

When a houseplant is heavily infested with mealybugs, the fastest way to control the pests is to prune away infected foliage and prudently discard it. If the infestation is light, the bugs can be deterred first with a strong stream of water followed by an application of Neem oil. Rubbing alcohol is also an effective control measure. Apply the alcohol directly to the pests with a cotton swab or ball soaked in alcohol. Regardless of the control method used, immature mealybugs can be easily missed. Keep an eye out and retreat the plant as necessary.

Spider Mites

These pests are very destructive to all houseplants and can be challenging to get rid of. The mites themselves are so tiny that they may not be noticeable even with a heavy infestation, but their webs on the undersides of foliage or stretching between stems are easier to see. Leaves that show yellow stippling may also indicate an infestation.

Spider mites thrive in dry conditions, so keeping houseplants’ humidity high is an excellent way to deter them. Running a humidifier, frequent misting, grouping pots, and sitting pots on a water-filled pebble tray are all helpful solutions. When the bugs are present, neem oil spray should be used weekly to remove them and keep them from returning. Alternatively, light cleaning with insecticidal soap is also an effective way to control spider mites.

Aphids

While better known for their outdoor infestations, aphids can also be a problem for indoor houseplants. They are tiny insects, no more than one-eighth of an inch in size, and range from green or black to reddish or white. They are plump insects and get that way as they suck sap from the plant, usually on the foliage or stems. The plant will gradually wilt as it is unable to stay firmly upright while the aphids drain its sap.

Aphids are easily dislodged with a blast of water, so a cleansing shower is an excellent way to remove them without any unnecessary chemicals. If the infestation is extreme, washing the plant gently with an insecticidal soap may be necessary. Neem oil spray can also be effective for controlling aphids on houseplants.

Scale

These insects have a hard, oval-shaped shell that gives them a tough, scale-like exterior as they line up on a plant’s stems in tight clusters, similar to barnacles on a boat’s hull. These pests suck sap from the plant and then produce a sticky, honeydew residue that can coat the plant and lead to mildew or may attract additional pests.

Your first line of defense is gently scraping scale bugs off with your fingernail, taking care not to scratch or damage the already stressed plant. Dabbing the insects with a cotton swab or ball soaked in rubbing alcohol or spraying with neem oil can also be effective.

Minimizing Houseplant Pests

No matter which pests present a problem, it’s always best to avoid infestations altogether rather than try to control them after the insects have already appeared. To minimize the risk of bugs taking over your houseplants…

  • Purchase new plants only from a reputable retailer like Driftwood. We offer pest-free houseplants, effective plant care products, and the support you may need to identify and combat pest problems.
  • Using the “We the Wild” organic preventative spray to ensure your plants are pest free.
  • Use high-quality, well-drained potting soil for all houseplants rather than garden soil that isn’t sterilized and can harbor pests.
  • Provide houseplants with optimum care so they are not stressed, as this can make them more susceptible to pest infestations.
  • Sterilize all houseplant equipment regularly, including pots that will be reused, pruners and shears, and watering cans, to be sure no pests are carried between plants.
  • Stay alert at all times for signs of possible insect infestations. The faster you act, the easier it will be to control these houseplant pests.

Finding pests on your houseplants can be frustrating or downright frightening, but don’t worry; with careful monitoring, appropriate control measures, and Driftwood in your corner, your plants will soon be pest-free.

Houseplants for the Home Office

Houseplants can be a wonderful and invigorating addition to the home office, bringing different benefits to your workspace. But which houseplants are best for a home office setting and what care do they need to thrive?

Benefits of Home Office Houseplants

Houseplants bring a touch of nature into your home office, nourishing peace and tranquility that can reduce stress no matter what the workday brings. Studies have shown office plants can boost productivity and creativity, enhancing your work and increasing job satisfaction. This is ideal for the home office, where distractions and erratic work hours can be a constant concern.

Office houseplants also offer a range of physical benefits. These plants act as a natural filter for cleaner air, reducing dust and allergens to help alleviate respiratory problems. Houseplants also reduce odors and airborne chemicals and can be especially effective in the small or unusual spaces such as closets or niches that so often become home offices. Houseplants also improve indoor humidity, which can further improve breathing and ease dry skin.

Best Houseplants for the Home Office

There are many beautiful options for home office houseplants. When choosing the best plant, take note of the office’s sunlight levels and typical temperatures, and select plants that can thrive in those conditions. Furthermore, plants that won’t spread too dramatically are often preferred for the home office so they don’t usurp extra desk space. Top houseplants for the home office include…

  • Snake Plants – Also called sword plant, mother-in-law’s tongue, and sansevieria, these hardy, upright plants come in different sizes and thrive even with irregular care. They are slow growers, making them perfect for office spaces.
  • African Violet – These bushy blooms add a burst of color to any desk, and they thrive in the same temperature and humidity conditions that are often found in home offices. Furthermore, these flowers are happy in fluorescent light, and miniature varieties are great for small desks.
  • Air Plants – Different tillandsias are easy houseplants for any space and are very low maintenance. Because they do not require soil, there is no need for planting in a pot. They are also beautiful accents in miniature terrariums.
  • Lucky Bamboo – Actually a type of dracaena, these upright plants are believed to channel good vibes and positive fortune – the ideal choice for any workspace. They can grow well in low light conditions, and their slow growth means they will keep their form well for years.
  • Peace Lily – These easy-to-grow plants come in medium and large sizes, and their dark green, glossy foliage is an elegant accent to any office space. They do require brighter light, and rotating them regularly can help keep their growth even.
  • Succulents – There are many different succulent varieties that can add a bit of whimsy to any office space. Choosing succulents that thrive in lower light are best for offices, including jade plant, zebra plant, and echeveria species.
  • Nerve Plant – Or fittonia, is a colorful plant comes in green, white, pink, and reddish foliage, allowing for personalization in the office space. There are several size options as well, and the 4-inch plants are best for offices. These plants do require higher humidity to look their best.
  • Parlor Palm – A larger plant that adds a tree-like accent to a larger office, the parlor palm is a dramatic option for the appropriate space. These plants still thrive in low light conditions, however, making them a good choice for home offices with tucked away corners.

Caring for Office Plants

No matter which houseplants are part of the home office, they need appropriate care just like houseplants in any other room. Choose a pot of the appropriate size for the plant’s needs, and be sure the pot has adequate drainage holes. Potting soil mix formulated for houseplants is best, and specialized plants such as succulents or flowering plants will thrive in soil mixes that meet their specialized needs. Adding a slow-release fertilizer can nourish office plants to keep them at their best.

Take care not to overwater office plants, as overwatering can lead to discoloration, root rot, soil funguses, and plant death. A small watering can is ideal for watering these plants directly at the base so the foliage is not soaked, which could attract different pests. As the plants grow, trimming them with a sharp pair of hand pruners will keep them neat and manage their size so they always bring their best to every work day.

Houseplants can thrive all over the house, including in the home office. By choosing the best type of plant to suit the office space and providing it with exceptional care, you will be nourishing not only the plant, but your own professional productivity as well.

Fall Chrysanthemums

No flower is more iconic of autumn than the chrysanthemum, and these beautiful mounding perennials are ideal for fall flowerbeds, pots, window boxes, borders, and many other uses. How will you get creative with chrysanthemums this fall?

Why We Love Chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums, or mums, are coming into their glory during the cooler months with a range of stunning autumn colors. Depending on the cultivar, these plants sport yellow, white, red, orange, bronze, pink, peach, wine, purple, and bicolored blooms. The flowers range from small, button-like blossoms to larger blooms reminiscent of daisies. Mum blooms are long-lasting when cut and they’re just as lovely in floral arrangements and bouquets as they are planted in containers, flowerbeds, and the landscape. This makes mums extremely useful for all manner of autumn décor.

Chrysanthemums are native to east Asia and northern Europe and were first domestically cultivated in China nearly 600 years ago. Today, there are more than 20,000 chrysanthemum cultivars worldwide. They are a hardy option for landscaping beds, and with a bit of thoughtful care, these tender perennials can be a wonderful addition to any flower garden or fall containers.

Caring for Chrysanthemums

The hardiness of chrysanthemums depends on the cultivar as well as the local climate and even the microclimate in your landscape. These flowers prefer well-drained, rich soil with a neutral pH, so it is best to use a good quality potting soil in containers. When planting chrysanthemums in the garden or landscape, mixing compost or fertilizer in the planting hole will help increase drainage and nourish the soil to promote the best blooms. A good rule of thumb is that if soil is good for vegetables, it will also be good for mums – making them a wonderful choice to refresh a garden after the summer harvest has finished.

Chrysanthemums grow best in full sun requiring a minimum of six hours per day. If mums are planted in containers, consider using a mobile plant cart or a stand with casters so that the pots may be moved to brighter areas, if needed, as the season progresses.

Chrysanthemums prefer evenly moist, but not soggy, soil. Because of their thick, mounding habit, it is best to water mums from below suing a soaker hose or irrigation drip system in garden beds. In pots, mums should again be watered from below the plant but above the soil line. A watering wand will make this job direct and easy. Be sure to drain excess water from saucers after watering so the roots do not remain continually wet.

Fertilizing chrysanthemums every month through the spring and early summer, with a balanced fertilizer, will help them grow and bloom well, but if mums are planted in the Fall, they should not need extra feeding as long as they were planted in rich, nutritious soil. Deadheading spent blooms by pinching them back can encourage more flowering and help mums maintain their compact, mounding habit.

Decorating with Fall Mums

Chrysanthemums are a beautiful choice not only in the garden, but are equally lovely in welcoming porch pots, deck or patio containers, or even small indoor pots and arrangements. Add an extra touch of fall with rustic containers, such as wine barrels, baskets, or terra cotta pots, or glam up your mums in hammered copper or bronze pots that will accentuate their color. A burlap ribbon or bow can be a charming accent, and you can give more seasonal flair to mum arrangements or flowerbeds by adding pumpkins and gourds as fun decorations. Indoors, use small pails or pots for petit mum arrangements, or add them to larger arrangements with grain sprigs, dried pods, colorful leaves, or twists of grapevine for additional texture.

Fall chrysanthemums can be a pleasant burst of autumn color, whether they are part of the landscape or are used in containers, pots, or arrangements and we carry a wide selection to make your fall home suit the season!

Kale, the Super Food

Did you know kale is a super food? Kale belongs to the same family as cabbage, broccoli and Brussels sprouts. It is a rich source of vitamins C, A, & B6, and is loaded with manganese, calcium, copper and potassium, with no fat or cholesterol. Add it to your garden for a healthy harvest!

Planting

In the fall, set out transplants or sow kale seeds about 6-8 weeks before first coldest nights in deep rich soil. Kale will need at least 6 hours of sun per day. Enrich your planting soil with plenty of compost. Planting kale in nutritious soil will promote faster plant growth and thus provide a tender, richer crop. Soil pH should be between 6.5 and 6.8. Sow seeds roughly one-half inch deep and thin seedlings to 8-12 inches apart to provide adequate air circulation. When thinning kale shoots, however, bear in mind that larger spacing will produce larger plants, larger plants produce larger leaves and larger leaves are generally tougher. Keep soil moist and mulch to control weeds. Water when planting and during dry spells.

Harvesting

Harvest the outer leaves of kale as they are needed for salads and recipes. Young tender leaves will grow from the center of the plant. Use the young leaves for salads and keep older leaves for cooking, which will help tenderize those larger leaves. Kale will continue to produce throughout fall in our area. In low lying areas or where it is colder, use floating row covers or low tunnels to extend the life of your kale. Kale will bolt (elongate) and flower in the spring. This signifies the end, and it is time to pull it up and compost the remaining plant.

Cooking

Kale may be used fresh or frozen. It may be steamed or stir-fried, or used in soups, stews, omelets and casseroles. It is a tasty base for salads or can be added to sandwiches. It may be used in recipes as a replacement for spinach and collard greens. It even makes fantastic chips!

Kale Chips

  • Preheat oven to 425 degrees Fahrenheit.
  • Clean Kale and spin dry. Remove all the tough stems.
  • Drizzle about 8 cups of leaves with one tablespoon of olive oil and toss to coat.
  • Place Kale leaves in a single layer on a parchment lined cookie sheet.
  • Bake for 10-15 minutes or until leaves are crisp but not scorched.
  • Remove from oven and immediately sprinkle with generous amount of flaky sea salt.
  • Devour!

With so many tasty options for kale and so many nutritional benefits from this super food, there’s no excuse not to add this easy-to-grow dietary wonder to your garden!

Get Started Composting

Fall is an excellent time to start a compost pile with all of the leaves falling, and if you develop compost now, you will have a rich source of organic material for your garden and flowerbeds in spring. Getting started with compost is fairly simple if you keep in mind the following…

  • Size Matters
    Smaller particles break down faster than larger chunks. Shredding or mulching garden wastes will help speed up the process and develop usable compost faster. Chop up larger pieces of household materials before adding them to your compost pile to speed up their decomposition.
  • Take a Turn for the Better
    Turning helps aerate the pile and shifts outer parts closer to the center where they can heat and decompose more effectively. A well-mixed pile will also have better consistency and more evenly distributed nutrients. Use a pitchfork, spade or rake to gently turn your pile periodically, such as once every 1-2 weeks or whenever you add a large amount of new material to the pile.
  • Know What to Compost
    Materials that can be composted are sod, grass clippings, leaves, hay, straw, manure, chopped corncobs, corn stalks, sawdust, shredded newspaper, wood ashes, hedge clippings and many kinds of plant refuse from the garden. Some household waste, such as coffee grounds, banana peels, eggshells and vegetable peelings are also ideal for a compost pile and will reduce the trash you accumulate.
  • Avoid Unwanted Materials
    Materials to avoid composting are large amounts of weeds, grease, fat, meat scraps and bones, cheese, coal ashes, diseased plants, cut weeds and charcoal. These materials do not decompose readily and can create poor quality compost. For example, meat, grease or dairy products in your compost will begin to smell strongly, which could attract rats, raccoons or other unwanted visitors. Diseased plants or weeds can survive in a compost pile, contaminating your garden when you add the compost to the soil in spring.
  • Cover as Needed
    Covering your compost pile with a tarp or large piece of carpet can help preserve the heat and moisture essential to promote appropriate decomposition. The cover can also keep the pile from freezing or getting too wet in winter conditions, and it can easily be removed to add new material or turn the pile as needed.

Before you toss out your next bag of trash, check for compost material and start your pile today! Your garden will thank you tomorrow.

Problems With Your Compost Pile? Fix Them!

A compost pile should be part of every gardener’s yard, since it adds so many benefits for recycling and providing organic material in the garden. There are times, however, when it can be tricky to keep a compost pile in peak condition and breaking down material most efficiently. If you encounter any of these common problems, you can easily correct them and keep your compost pile at its best.

  • Pile is Too Dry
    Without adequate moisture, beneficial microorganisms cease to function and decomposition stops, turning a compost pile into a clumpy mess that does not decay into usable organic material. Keep the pile moist at all times, but not overly wet. A dampness like a squeezed sponge is ideal. It may be necessary to use a hose to water your pile occasionally, or a tarp or piece of plastic over the top of the pile can help keep moisture in the pile instead of evaporating.
  • Foul Odor
    A stinky compost pile is no gardener’s friend, and over-watering the pile will compact the material. When air space is decreased, the pile becomes anaerobic, resulting in an unpleasant odor. Turn the pile frequently to increase aeration and add larger pieces of dry, porous, carbon-rich material such as wood chips or straw to absorb excess water and improve air circulation.
  • Pile is Cool
    Check all the items required for a hot, quickly-decomposing pile: carbon, nitrogen, air and water. Correct any deficiencies. Another issue may be that a pile that is too small will have difficulty insulating itself. Increase the size of your compost pile by adding more material so it can generate sufficient heat from decomposition to keep itself warm.
  • Pests in the Pile
    While insects and worms are welcome helpers in a compost pile, a poor pile may also be attracting mice, rats, squirrels, raccoons and other wildlife. This usually means that the wrong material was used for composting. Never add meat, fish, bones, dairy products or oily food to the compost pile, all of which can have strong odors that will attract unwanted wildlife. Similarly cat or dog manure should be added to the pile. Avoid adding weeds or diseased plants as well, since those weed seeds or disease spores could be transmitted to your garden or landscape when the compost is spread.
  • Poor C/N Ratio
    When planning the optimum conditions for compost decomposition, the standard recommendation is 3-to-1; three parts carbon to one part nitrogen. Carbon-based material is brown and nitrogen-based material is usually, but not always, green. Chopping or shredding additions to the compost pile will speed up the decomposition and help keep the pile balanced.The best materials to add to your compost pile include…

    Brown Material (Carbon-Based)
    – Dried, dead Leaves
    – Shredded paper, including newspaper
    – Wood ash
    – Sawdust
    – Eggshells
    – Chipped brush and wood chips
    – Straw and twigs

    Green Material (Nitrogen)
    – Grass clippings and sod scraps
    – Vegetable and fruit peels, scraps and rinds
    – Disease and insect-free plant material, such as clippings and prunings
    – Horse, cow, chicken and rabbit manure (herbivores)
    – Coffee grounds and used coffee filters
    – Used tea bags
    – Used potting soil

No matter what issues your compost pile may be having, problems are easy to correct, and you can quickly adjust your pile to be productive and efficient. Before you know it, you’ll have plenty of rich, nutritious compost to nurture your garden and landscape all year long.

The Fall Vegetable Garden

Fresh vegetables are thriving this time of year in SWFL – fall is the best time to plant an autumn vegetable garden. Many vegetables such as broccoli or cauliflower are of a higher quality when grown in the fall, while others, like kale, develop better flavor after cooler nights. Spinach, chard, kale, collards, mustard and rapeseed all grow rapidly and flourish at the end of the season, ideal for autumn gardening. Loose-leaf lettuces do well, too.

To prepare your bed, spade or till the soil to a depth of 6-8 inches, rake the area lightly and work in a light application of composted manure, like Black Kow, to provide adequate nutrition for rapid-growing fall veggies.

Broadcast a mixture of seeds like mustard, kale and rapeseed, or combine seeds of several types of lettuce to allow you to harvest your salad already mixed. It works best to plant greens in blocks or wide rows, because they’re easier to harvest and you’ll have fewer weeds. If you plant blocks each time a new space opens up, you’ll have staggered plantings that can produce over a long time.

Some autumn vegetable varieties will tolerate cooler weather better than others. Read seed packets before you purchase them to determine what will be best in our area, but don’t be put off by such notations as chard’s taking 60 days to mature. The greens are good when they’re younger, too.

Water seeds after sowing and keep the ground evenly moist until the seedlings are up and growing. Seedlings may also need to be sheltered from extreme heat. Protect them by shading them from the sun with Reemay fabric or in some partial shade until they are established.

Although insects tend to be less bothersome in late fall, some vegetables in the cabbage family, including mustard, kale and collards, may attract cabbageworms. Apply Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) sprays for an organic method of control. As the plants begin to fill out, thin them enough to allow air to circulate and dry off moisture. This helps prevent insect problems too.

Harvest your fall vegetables as soon as the plants reach edible size. Keep harvesting to enjoy the yield of your extended-season garden.

Top Fall Vegetables

  • Arugula
  • Broccoli
  • Cabbage
  • Cauliflower
  • Swiss Chard
  • Collards
  • Kale
  • Lettuce
  • Spinach

Birdscaping

As wildlife habitats are threatened by development, the creation of a bird-friendly environment that provides food, water and shelter is crucial to the existence of our wild bird population. Caring for our feathered-friends is an educational and enjoyable activity for the entire family that brings beauty and song to our lives.

Benefits of Wild Birds

Birds are great guests to have in your yard, garden or landscape, and they provide more benefits than many homeowners and gardeners realize. Wild birds can…

  • Control insects by feasting on both flying and crawling insects, as well as spiders, slugs, snails and other creepy-crawlies.
  • Pollinate plants by flitting from flower to flower as they seek out insects or eat seeds, taking pollen along between blooms.
  • Manage weeds as they consume copious amounts of weed seeds before the seeds ever have a chance to sprout.
  • Control rodents when raptors visit the yard in search of mice, rats, or other unwanted pests.

Attracting Backyard Birds

Fortunately, it is easy to attract a wide variety of backyard birds when you offer them what they need most – food, water and shelter.

Food for Birds

Wild birds rely on both natural and supplemental food supplies so it is important to consider both when birdscaping. Feeding the birds is most important in the winter when natural food is scarcer, but they will visit feeders at any time of year. Migratory birds require additional food in the spring and fall as they pass through the region and nesting birds will utilize feeders in the summer.

Tips:

  • Provide a variety of natural foods for birds by planting berry bushes, seed-bearing flowers, nectar-rich flowers and sunflowers. Leave windfall fruit on the ground for birds to nibble. Minimize pesticide use so birds can feast on insects as well.
  • Add supplemental feeders to your yard, such as birdseed feeders, suet feeders and nectar feeders. Clean feeders weekly to avoid mold that can be dangerous to birds, and be sure feeders are full when birds need them most.

Water

Improve your backyard bird habitat by adding water. Birds require a constant supply of clean water for drinking and bathing. This is especially important in early summer, when it’s hot and dry.

Tips:

  • Place bird baths in a protected location safe from predators, and keep the baths filled at all times so a fresh supply of water is constantly available.
  • Scrub off algae as soon as it is appears and thoroughly was the bird bath each week to minimize feces contamination or other messes in the water.
  • Provide motion for greater attraction by using a bubbler, wiggler, dripper or fountain. Birds will see the sparkles of the moving water and will hear the splashes from great distances, so more birds will visit.
  • Use Mosquito Dunks to safely prevent mosquito larvae in warm weather. A clean bird bath with moving water will also harbor fewer insects.

Shelter

It is important to offer safe and comfortable shelter for your wild birds to nurture their young, protect them from predators and shield them from the elements. Planting evergreen trees and shrubs and providing bird houses, along with roosting boxes and pockets, are all beneficial additions to your birdscape.

Tips:

  • Choose both deciduous and evergreen landscaping trees and shrubs to offer birds different types of shelter in all seasons.
  • Minimize pruning to give birds denser, more secure shelter to take advantage of when they feel threatened.
  • Plant in layers and create thicket-like pockets or corridors in your landscape so birds can move around freely without feeling exposed.
  • Supplement the shelter in your yard with good quality bird houses, or nesting pockets to give birds even more options to stay safe and secure.

When you meet birds’ needs for food, water and shelter, your birdscape will soon be home to a fun and friendly flock of backyard birds.